Me and the trike, with two 20-watt halogen headlights, two daytime running lights, three mirrors, four side-mounted amber lights, two rear-facing red lights, an amber strobe light, and a flag. I've replaced the 20" rear wheels with 24" rear wheels.
I posed for this picture. I always ride wearing a helmet and sunglasses.
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The strobe light rises 6' off the ground.
Even in daylight, the 12-LED clearance light is bright.
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Kinda hard to see in this picture (unless you zoom in), but I have two bags mounted on the handlebars. One (an old Nintendo Game Boy fanny pack) is now a bike tool bag. The other is an old blue fanny pack for carrying my wallet, house keys, and cell phone while I'm out riding. It also has an orange poncho I can wear if it rains.
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The cargo area is made of 2x3 pine and 3/8" hardware (threaded rod, nuts, washers).
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A homemade bike fender, made from 1x6 lumber. A $3 piece of wood saved me about thirty bucks compared to buying regular bicycle fenders!
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Amber rear side reflector and 12-LED clearance light.
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Battery carrier (the used Samsonite camera bag), electrical junction box and auxiliary power outlet. In the upper left are the polarized connectors to hook the battery pack to the bike.
Polarized connectors can only be connected one way, so there's no chance of making a mistake and hooking the battery up backwards. The battery charger (not shown) uses the same polarized connectors.
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Without the battery pack. The fuse panel (with automotive type fuses). To the far right is an auxiliary power outlet (looks like a cigarette lighter, but no lighter part). I have a cheap dashboard solar charger that will plug in the outlet to help keep the battery charged during the daytime.
Even a small solar charger can put out up to 17 volts, which will damage the LED lights. I added a voltage regulator (in the electrical junction box) that will keep the power to the lights at 12 volts.
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The 12-volt battery and inline fuse . The cover is off to show that yes, there is a fuse in there. The battery (12 volt, 7 amp-hour) came from a small computer UPS.
Normally, I wouldn't even take the battery out of the case; just unplug from the bike and connect to the charger.
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The left fender. The white area towards the bottom is reflective tape (with 1/2" staples to keep it there). I might add some forward facing lights (or more reflectors) somewhere in this area.
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No loose wiring on this bike!
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Two water bottles and the 56-LED tail/brake light, plus the red reflector that came with the bike.
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Definite high visibility...
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It will even park in tight spaces.
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The cargo area is just the right size for a small cooler.
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The strobe light. It's mounted on a cover for a weatherproof outlet box, which is then mounted on top of a 1/2" conduit.
The red, white, and blue on the light pole are "engineering grade reflective safety tapes" with embedded glass beads, 7-year lifespan, and will reflect light even when wet. They're available from Identi-Tape (they even have duct tape in 26 colors!).
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The strobe flashes 60 times per minute.
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Wiring is hidden and secure from damage.
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Light switches (with indicator lights).
RED - running lights
AMBER - strobe light
BLUE - headlights
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Partial driver's view: handlebar-mounted mirrors, water bottle, handlebar-mounted gear shifters, lighting control panel, air pump, "bike computer" (aka speedometer). There's also the typical bicycle bell, a kid's horn that goes "honk", and a small electric horn that sounds like the meeeep of the old VolkswagenBeetle.
I'd prefer an analog bike speedometer (with the round dial) but I don't think they're made anymore, so I have to use this thing with buttons.
At least the numbers don't keep flashing like on the VCR.
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The driver's view.
Before riding, most people get a mirror positioned correctly and don't have to touch it again. Unfortunately, when you start riding on hills, it's properly positioned (meaning you can see the car coming up behind you) only ONE TIME out of these three scenarios: riding uphill, on level ground, riding downhill. So, I need three mirrors.
Two mirrors are mounted on the ends of the handlebar. To add the third mirror, I created a mounting bar made from a short length of PVC conduit (painted black to avoid a shiny glare when looking through the fairing). The conduit extends pass the fairing about 6" on each side.
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The front amber clearance lights are mounted on a short length of 2x4 lumber, which is then mounted to the handlebar stem using 3/4" conduit hangers.
Also visible in this photo are the electrical controller for the hub-mounted motor and below it, a white reflector. Both are mounted on the same piece of lumber.
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A pair of driving lights are installed on the light mounting bar, also using 3/4" conduit hangers. Wiring is hidden inside the conduit.
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To attach the conduit to the handlebars, I used 3/4" conduit hangers.
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Front view of the bike, without the fairing. Looks kinda nekkid.
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Front view of the bike, with the fairing.
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If oncoming drivers can't see this heading their way, they shouldn't be allowed to drive. They're probably on the cellphone.
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MORE PICTURES COMING SOON
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